THE GUILTY HYENA

Runway

London Fashion Week AW 15

RunwayGuilty Hyena3 Comments

The plethora of shows taking place at London Fashion Week can be perpendicular to the senses, here's a few of the collections I opted to share. I've yet to have a peek at the druthers of Milan, Paris Fashion week, until I'm more wired. 

DIANI DIAZ - LCF MA 2015

+ ILLUSTRATION 

+ Greys & Black

+ My Favourite piece Trench Coat

Desfase is the A/W 2015 ready to wear collection that combines street-luxurious casualwear with soft tailoring, aiming to appeal to sophisticated and effortlessly chic women.

The concept behind the collection was inspired by the performance Fase: four movements on the music of Steve Reich, by choreographer and dancer Anne Teresa de Keersmaeker.

The performance is well known for its cool, minimal abstraction and precision.
The aesthetics of the collection combine attention to detail and the use of innovative surfaces, methods and premium modern materials such as foam and silicone, adding a sense of newness to the range.

+ Translucent frosted elements

It's safe to say, this collection is hitting my sweet silicone spot! The neoteric impulsion by Colombian Diani Diaz, of combining and experimenting with modern materials such as foam and rubber in an stimulating aesthetic mien is creative and meritorious. Diani Diaz collaborated with designer Chiara Pavan for the eyewear, which aptly complements the collection.     

+ Molded Foam Structured Neck 

LE KILT AW15 - She Said Boom

+ Chiara Pavan Eyewear

The collection inspired by the post-punk fanzine created by 80’s band Fifth Column, as well as a extension of the Scottish designer/creative director, Samantha McCoach’s own subcultural uniform.

MARKUS LUPFER - CARROT & STICK

+ ILLUSTRATION BY PAULA ABALLAH 

SPARKLY GEM BEANIE HATS

Enchanted Woodland - Bambi printed bombers, Bunnies, Beanies, Carrots, Ribbed necks. Jacquard Dresses, Linda Farrow Daisy Sunglasses and Glittery Trainers

PREEN AW15 - SHEARLING PATCHWORK

  + ILLUSTRATION BY  PAULA ABALLAH

+ ILLUSTRATION BY PAULA ABALLAH

CLaire Barrow AW15 - High Flyers

  + ILLUSTRATION BY    ELYSE BLACKSHAW

+ ILLUSTRATION BY ELYSE BLACKSHAW

SIMONE ROCHA aw15- PETALS & PEARLS

would wear this coat in autumn and winter

Big on Illustration on scarves, jumpers and coats

TATTY DEVINE EARRINGS COLLABORATION

The Claire Barrow brand is renowned for its unique illustrated aesthetic.
Inspired by French-American artist and sculptor Louise Bourgeois. Floral & Hair Appliques, Dusty Cream Organza Dresses, Tapestry Capes Damask Aristocrat.

When I usually see the name 'Simone Rocha' It conjure up images of perspex heels, when I first set my eyes on them. I immediately went out and bought a pair that I could afford,  My favorite from the collection was the see through sheer organza dresses with cloudy petal appliques, and some funky hair attachment pieces here or there. 

VIVIENNE WESTWOOD RED LABEL AW 15

The camouflage tiger print coat was where my focal point went to , I do have a weakness for a camo print.  

mary katrantzou aw 15 - kenophobia

Duffel Coats with ornate damask baroque with a modicum of 3D Triangle spikes.

Relished the garments which had characteristic 3D triangular spikes and skirt objects and I thought the Styrofoam-like runway made for a quirky fun presentation, which complimented the collection. A tasty amalgamation of old baroque with futuristic Geometric 3D. 

ERDEM AW 15 

Metallic Green, Purple and Pink
Brocade Party Frocks

ANYA HINDMARCH AW15 - M25

Anya drew inspiration from the lights, reflective surfaces and graphic signage that you find on the motorway. Using intricate techniques such as leather marquetry and thermal bonding, we’ve explored these graphics in a luxurious and subtly humorous way on totes and evening clutches

Would wear these outerwear in a heartbeat, even with the iconic responsible trash man.  The keep your distance coat could come in handy if you are having a cruddy abominable day. 

Dora Abodi AW15 - CULT OF THE TWIN UNISUS 

The futuristic digital prints are inspired by exploding crystals and metallic components of robots. The Twin Unisus symbol has evolved in a different Metamorphoses. The silhouettes are sophisticated, sometimes deconstructed and asymmetric but still timeless. The collection has an air of ethereal femininity, encapsulating the mysterious creatures of the Cult of the Twin

Unicorns everywhere

 I like the frayed element on the hand gloves

I like the frayed element on the hand gloves

Unisus - The collection is an insight in to the fragile borders and conflicts between; innocence and sin, religion and paganism, faith and denial, beliefs and fantasies of half human, half extra-terrestrial creatures. Inspiration was taken from science fiction, wild London rave parties of early 90’s (klubkid grunge platform and backpack reinterpretations, hairstyle etc.) and the dark, gothic atmosphere of Transylvania.

CAPE

ASHLEY WILLIAMS AW15 

Ashley-Williams-London-RTW1.jpg

Ashley Williams collection it's all about the girls. Packed full of hellion rebel slogans 'Last Chance to Escape Planet Earth" and "Plastic Surgery" and 'Improve your image be seen with me' patched onto the garments. Rebellious gang of girls kitted up in 90's kitsch grunge with bright yellows and bubblegum pinks, with on trend cutout knee-holes.   

Anything you see to add to your wardrobe lust list ? 

Seoul Fashion Week FW 2014/15

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I find Seoul to be one of the most enticing cities in the world for it's art and culture and there’s a fresh wave coming in from Korea. I do wish Korean Fashion would amplify its online markets or direct purchasing, to make it more accessible.

Kaal E. Suktae

This collection is canon! I want the HAT and every single piece from head to toe, including the chunky platform ankle boots!

Kim Chul Ung Mode

Kooky fur head-wear perfect for winter

Kye

Cuban-link embossing across knits and accessories

PartspARTs IMSEONOC

Neoprene minimal avant garde

Big Park

Looks inspired by a family dinner table.

Arche

The Marie Antoinette-inspired collection, with oodles of embellishments and quilted prints.

Cres.E DIM

Sporty Sci-fi. Materials such as wool, neoprene and leather

S=7Z

Digital Prints

Johnny hates Jazz

Some tasty outerwear + croc leather elements

Soulpot

Inspired by Zaha Hadid's Design Plaza building

Second Run

Photo's Courtesy of The Mitty Niki Bruce + Style.co.kr

Milan Fashion Week FW 2014

RunwayGuilty Hyena1 Comment

Too much is usually never enough in Milan, the heart of the maximalist. Milan Fashion Week held strong to it's tailoring and luxury and had a whole lot more to offer this season, making strides in supporting and platforming young designer talent.

Gucci

Swinging 60's mod Gucci with pastel hues and was more minimal than I would have expected, its the first time I've ever looked at a Gucci collection with a desire to wear most of it.

Frankie Morello

The Virgin Suicides reinterpreted by Frankie Morello, rebellious fun youthful pastel blue and pink illustrative prints and layering was everywhere, this speaks to my playful side.

Byblos
I was inspired by the pictures taken from the satellite to the Earth : I had never paid attention to the details and I had never analyzed from so close, says Manuel Facchini
Faye

Woodstock was the primary character of the prints, Snoopy's bird friend. I like the skirts.

Fausto Puglisi
Fendi

The Fendi bag bug has taken over where our teenage keychains left off.

Just Cavalli
Krizia

Signature panther.

Emporio Armani

Power suiting and androgynous, inspired by Luc Besson’s Nikita. I'm a hat person, so I dig the over size bowler hats, even though they will swallow my head up.

Moschino

Difficult to ignore this collection, draws a comparison between fast food and fast fashion. 

Sportmax

Some tasty outerwear

Au Jour Le Jour

Milan’s efforts to spotlight emerging talent.

Iceberg

One of my fave collections, the leather buckle fasteners + metallic and neoprene sweaters, very wearable.

Gabriele Colangelo

Inspired by the watercolors of the German artist Joachim Bandau, white and black background to explore the universe of gray.

Missoni
Dsquared2

Oodles of crystal embellishments and accessories

Anything you see to add to your wardrobe lust list ? I'm certainly not adding a drone to mine!

Photos Courtesy of Sony Vandevelde + NowFashion

London Fashion Week AW 14 : Day 1-3

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Despite the wind and rain London looked particularly enchanting last week. Not only has it been London Fashion Week but also the BAFTAs and the Brit awards, meaning that there were a host of distinguished faces and stylish power dressing in town. My favorite actor Christian Bale was in town, who usually prefers to keep away from the limelight off the big screen. Fashion Week saw some of the most well known and respected British heritage brands take to the runway. 

Vivienne Westwood

Vivienne Westwood’s models were wearing the signature tartan, coupled with short and wide top hats, cultivating in the past some of the more outlandish designs, this time the clothes projected privilege and adventure – an English Anna Karenina if you will – and a sprinkling of heritage alongside the urban punk of Westwood Red. Glamorous heavy fur coats, ladylike pencil suits and headscarves.. mixed within these pieces there were some wearable outfits, with court shoes and pearls that have had me eyeing those from Mesenso.com ever since. 

At the end of the show, Dame Vivienne graced the catwalk and took a bow – arm in arm with her granddaughter Cora Corre.

PREEN

Going in a completely different direction were the London label Preen who summed up their current look as ‘Hot sci-fi geek.’ Having taken inspiration from 1970s pop culture, Storm Troopers could be found about the Preen dressing rooms and Darth Vader was printed across some of the models' chests. It's worth noting that Star Wars was the first film Justin Thornton and Thea Bregazzi ever saw at the cinema.

DAKS

A celebration of 120 years of Daks with a traditional British set up, which included Bear Skin, beefeater like hats!

I particularly liked the shoes with the pony hair element

Christopher Raeburn

With military fabric, there is a great abundance of things that never get used. For me, the excitement and the enjoyment come from reusing an original item and making something wearable. That’s what drives me. Christopher Raeburn
Holly Fulton + Markus Lupfer Jumpers

I like a good quirky sweatshirt jumper! With art deco motifs and Lupfer cafe.

Richard Nicoll

A cobalt blue bow-detail dress and knitted cape.

Fyodar + Nasir Mazhar

Mary Katrantzou

Ridonkulously oodles of craftsmanship went into this.

Charlie May

Crisp an clean wearable pieces, taking inspiration from the textured wilderness of Dartmoor in Devon, the windswept environment is reflected in the use of pony-skin and Mongolian furs.

Photo's courtesy of Fashionsing + Sonny Vandevelde Photos + Showstudio

Paris Fashion Week SS 14

RunwayGuilty Hyena7 Comments

Now that the Parisian dust has settled, I've scoured some of the looks offering a tiny glimpse of what the ladies will be wearing next spring, zero restrictions and no practicalities considered.

Viktor & Rolf

Channeling prep school style into your wardrobe with an edge.

Hexa Kuho

Korean warrior goddesses, I beseech the delicate nubs of flowers.

Kenzo
"We were really inspired by the fact that water is alive and it has a heartbeat. I feel like when you walk in the room and you see this, you realise that. One of our biggest messages was also this idea of protecting our oceans and to stop over-fishing. Obviously we work and create fashion but I think that fashion and social issues can exist together. How do we live in harmony with the ocean?" - Humberto Leon and Carol Lim, co-creative directors.
Devastee
"It's the end of spring. It's 5am, you're in Tokyo and you're awake for three hours. It's daylight. You are at the Aoyama Cemetery. Dozens of birds singing around you. The city seems far away. You look at the Mori Tower which overlooks you." - Ophelia Klere and Francois Alary
○ Undercover
○ Ground Zero

Ann Demeulemeester

My fave shoes from Paris Fashion week. Did anything catch your fancy at PFW ?

Photo's courtesy of Sonny Vandevelde Fashionising 

New York Fashion Week SS 14

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New York Fashion Week seemed like so looong ago, not helped by my tardiness, of creating runway posts. Next stop London.

○ Kenneth Cole

Youthful bosky streetwear + structured pieces.

○ Libertine

Elizabeth II-inspired prints the design that reads ‘God Save the Libertine'. Nails by butter LONDON Global Colour Ambassador.

○ Alexander Wang 

90's street style, logo zealous.

○ Hood By Air

The Spring 14 HBA collection titled 'GUMP', adrogenous gender ambigious models. The Paramount Studio's inspired shirt dress is my fave.

+DKNY

+KATE SPADE

Start/Finish slogan reversible clutch bag.

Did you have any faves ? Photos courtesy of Fashion156